Correcting facial shape and color defects is possible, if you know the rules of camouflage . Here are all the essential rules!
Camouflage tools and products
Part of the camouflage is done before applying the foundation, part after applying the powder. You will need:
- A primer of the necessary color
- A foundation that suits your skin
- A mattifying powder
- A contouring earth in a cool and not too dark colour
- A luminous yet subtle highlighter
- Yellow, orange, green, lilac/pink corrector, according to your skin tone
- Wide powder brush
- Concealer brush for precision application
- Fan Highlighter Brush
- Angled contouring brush
- Silicone sponge
- Fixing spray
The theory of color
The color theory or Itten circle says that every color cancels out when exposed to its complementary color. Let’s see the pairs:
- Redness is masked with primer and green concealer
- Blue circles are masked with yellow concealer
- Purple dark circles are masked with orange concealer
- The yellowish and dull areas are masked with lilac/pink
Applying camouflage (makeup) to correct colors
First use a primer of the necessary color: if you have very red skin you will need a green one; if it is dull and yellowish, a pink or lilac one.
Concealers are applied spot , exactly on the imperfection to be covered. Use a concealer brush to be more precise and to avoid using too much product, which would be difficult to cover with foundation. To blend the concealer, moisten the sponge with a fixing spray and dab it deeply on the skin.
Then apply the foundation: we recommend the sponge and dabbing movements so as not to move the concealer applied underneath. Dust very little mattifying powder, compact or loose, with a large brush.
Applying camouflage to correct shapes
Let’s now move on to correcting shapes: a forehead that is too high, a prominent nose or a face that is too round.
The cold, dark color of the earth will imitate a shadow and make the part of the face appear hollow: use it where the contour of the face is too protruding (under the cheeks, along the jaw, on the sides of a bulbous nose).
The light and bright color of the highlighter makes the area stand out and look more protruding: use it to emphasize the lower part of the eyebrows, the cheekbone under the eye up to the temple, the Cupid’s bow, a too flattened tip of the nose.
Each type of face has a specific contouring that can help correct the shape. But for all of them, a meticulous and blended application is essential: blend, blend, blend and when everything seems well blended, blend some more! The goal is to completely eliminate sharp and unnatural lines. To help you, you can gently dab the sponge over the contouring again.